阿尔普哈拉斯：内华达山脉南坡的白色村庄

The Alpujarras are the white mountain villages on the south side of the Sierra Nevada, about an hour inland from Motril. They make a good day trip or weekend away from the beach. This guide covers the main villages, how to get there and a simple weekend plan.

Where the Alpujarra begins

The Alpujarra (also written Alpujarras) is the southern side of the Sierra Nevada. On the Granada side its main town is Órgiva. The villages sit at about 1,200 metres on average, so it is noticeably cooler than the coast. Olives grow on the lower terraces and almonds higher up. Everything depends on mountain water, carried along old irrigation channels called acequias.

Lanjarón, the spa town at the gate

Lanjarón is the first town on the way up, at about 660 metres. It is a spa town, known for its mineral water, with a ruined castle you can walk up to before lunch. Go in the late morning, before the tour buses arrive.

Órgiva, a few kilometres further on, is the place for shops, banks and fuel before the mountain road starts to climb.

The three villages of the Poqueira gorge

The best-known views are in the Poqueira gorge, a deep valley below Mulhacén with three villages on its side. Pampaneira is the lowest, at about 1,060 metres, and the busiest, with many craft shops selling ceramics, leather and woollen blankets. Bubión, in the middle, is quieter. Capileira is the highest, at about 1,436 metres, with the most places to eat and stay and the best views.

Flat roofs, narrow streets and water

The villages were built in the North African style brought by the Moors: narrow, winding streets and low houses with flat roofs, called terraos. The houses step down the slope, so one roof is often the terrace of the house below. Come early in the day, when the low sun throws shadows across the white walls.

In many lanes you can hear water running in the acequias before you see it.

Trevélez and its ham

Trevélez, at about 1,476 metres, is famous for its ham. The dry, thin mountain air is ideal for curing Serrano ham, and you will see whole legs hanging in the shop windows. Locals sometimes call it the highest village in Spain, which is not quite true, but it is very high.

Above a certain height, the mountain air does half the curing for you.

Buy some ham to take home, and ask for a few slices with bread and local wine. Trevélez is further from the Poqueira villages than it looks on the map, so give it a proper lunch stop.

Getting there from Motril and Salobreña

From Motril, Lanjarón is just under an hour on the A-348. From Salobreña, add a few minutes. Órgiva is about 15 kilometres past Lanjarón on the same road. From Órgiva, allow about 40 minutes on the mountain road to the three Poqueira villages.

For walkers, the Poqueira loop takes about three hours and links all three villages. The GR 240 long-distance path also passes through Pampaneira. Bring a warm layer even in autumn, because the mountain weather changes quickly.

A weekend plan

1. 09:00

   Leave Motril

   Go early, while Lanjarón is still quiet, and drive the valley in the cooler part of the day.

2. 11:00

   Lanjarón

   Fill your bottles at the fountains outside town, see the baths and walk up to the castle.

3. 13:00

   Órgiva

   Lunch and last stops before heading up the mountain road.

4. 15:30

   Pampaneira and Bubión

   Walk between the two villages in the afternoon light.

5. 18:00

   Stay in Capileira

   The highest village has the most places to eat and sleep, and the best evening view of the gorge.

6. 09:30

   Sunday, the Poqueira loop

   Walk the three-hour loop while it is cool, drive to Trevélez for lunch and ham, then head back to the coast.

You can combine the Alpujarras with a day in Granada. In winter, the ski slopes on the other side of the Sierra Nevada are also close: see our guide to skiing in the morning and swimming in the afternoon.

For the city itself, read our guide to the Alhambra and the old quarters of Granada.